
We didn't bother to purchase internet time at the hotel, so wrote some blog posts, and are publishing them now that we are home. You can read Maggie's post
here.
Wednesday, April 7, 18h
Amsterdam is a lovely city, but can sometimes be a challenge with children… we found an english bookstore shortly after arriving, and so were fortunately able to reinforce our supply of reading matter for both kids. We came in around mid-day yesterday, and after a little walk past the flower market, Madame Tussauds, the Hard Rock Cafe, we came to our Hotel and the Vondelpark. After checking in we set out for a boat tour of the canals, and saw many sights of the city... the drivers know the area very well, and seemed to enjoy their own "Amsterdam Coffee Break" without any ill effects.

It's amazing to me how closely integrated the water is with life in this city... it's like I understand Venice to be. Even the opera house is on the water...

Today we were up early and off to the Van Gogh Museum. Since it was closed until 10h, we walked along to the Concertgebouw, and found out about the free lunchtime concert that starts at 12h30 on Wednesdays. Stopping for a coffee, we headed back to the Van Gogh, and spent a very pleasant hour-and-a-half going through the first floor galleries, which trace Van Gogh's artistic development from his early days in Antwerp through to the Paris period and then his final time in Arles.
This is the largest exhibit of Van Gogh in the world, and it is presented very intelligently with lots of external context… for the first time in a long time I didn't have to translate from the French, as they present the descriptions in Nederlands and English, unlike in Belgium, where it's French and Flemish. Maggie and Duncan enjoyed the video guide, while Malcolm and I opted for going without and just reading the descriptions and looking at the paintings themselves. I was interested to see influences from Japanese painting, such as abrupt cropping of figures, the absence of a horizon, and a flatness of presentation; these things are not indicative of a lack of technique, but a deliberate artistic choice. By skipping the audio commentary, we missed out on a few things, but Duncan knew lots about the famous "ear incident" and gave us lots of details as we walked back to the Concertgebouw for the lunch concert.

After contemplating an hour's wait in line with two kids, we realized that we were more in need of lunch, so went a cafe for some soup (Maggie and I), a sandwich (Malcolm) and some frites (Duncan). I did manage a quick look inside the small concert hall, which is really beautiful, perfect for chamber music, but the large salle was closed in preparation for the evening concert, so that will have to wait until another time.
After lunch we headed back to the Van Gogh museum for the Paul Gaugin exhibit, which made reference to the famous Paris exhibition of 1889. With their works excluded from the main showing, which was dominated by painters of the academic tradition, Gaugin and his contemporaries organized their own expo of modern art in a cafe. This present-day exposition was careful to try to recreate the ambiance of that 1889 show by making the display space as much like a cafe as they could, with an installation of cafe chairs in the centre of the salle, paintings from the original show, as well as twelve zincographs by Gaugin on yellow paper along one wall. There was also a display and explanation of the process of zincography, and on the second level, more paintings by Gaugin that traced the arc of his career. I was particularly interested in an 1889 painting of a red-headed bather entering the blue-green water, entitled "Into the Waves".

Upstairs a carved polychromed wood piece ("Be Mysterious", 1890) used the same image in a different medium.

It reminded me very much of my friend Darren's work; he does large wooden bas-reliefs himself, and his style at times also incorporates japanese or primitivist influences, much like Van Gogh and Gaugin.
Thursday, April 8, 12h
We are on the train back to Brussels, sitting in a compartment: it's a "Harry Potter" train according to Duncan. Nothing from the refreshments trolley, though; we had a little lunch in the station before leaving. This morning was fairly cold and damp, so we opted to head home a little early. Now of course the sun is shining brightly, and we can see large expanses of blue sky. Oh well! We needed to be back home in good time, so that we all could get a good night's sleep.

Last night after the Gaugin exhibit Maggie and the boys walked back to the Vondelpark, and from there to the hotel, while I headed down to a used music score place to poke around for bargains. I spent a good hour there, but the sheer number of scores was a bit overwhelming, stacked as they were floor-to-ceiling, and it was very dusty. I did find a couple of items, a set of Brahms duets for baritone/alto and soprano, and an assortment of Brahms, Mendelssohn, and Schumann lieder arranged for voice and guitar. I suppose it would be a useful thing to learn my own guitar accompaniments for these well-known pieces, just for fun. This store's catalogue is available online, and I am back in Amsterdam at the end of May for a BL!NDMAN concert, so I'll do my searching online and ask the proprietor to put stuff aside for me once I've had more time to consider.
On my way home I walked along a long market that seemed to sell everything from meditation crystals to jeans, DVDs to fresh fish. I met up with the family, and we had a little quiet time reading and relaxing together, and then took the advice of our concierge and went to Bazar, a middle eastern restaurant located in a gorgeous building. Originally a church, it was then used as a synagogue before being converted into a restaurant. The food was incredibly good, and the service was excellent. We started with a plate of stuffed grape leaves, phyllo pastry and four delicious dipping sauces/pastes, and then had skewered shrimps and chicken and lamb stew with almond and cardamom. I would recommend this restaurant in a flash for anyone going to Amsterdam; the kids even got ice cream at the end of their meals.

The market that I had seen earlier that afternoon was wrapping up, and there were two herons that prowling in the street, lured no doubt by the scent of fresh fish that still lingered among the piles of ice used to cool the fish during the day. These birds were really a beautiful and unexpected sight, but then we are in a city surround and completely networked by water, so perhaps the sight of them was not so unusual to the residents. We had a leisurely walk back to the hotel, and turned in for the night, falling asleep quickly.
Next time we are here I hope to see some other things, like the Rijksmuseum that has a collection of Flemish masters, and also the Anne Frank house, which was mostly inaccessible due to renovations. I do also hope to get a good look inside that Concertgebouw, and also the Netherlands Opera House.
The trees here in Brussels are flowering like mad, and we are looking forward to some relaxing days now after bustling around for the last three. Have a wonderful weekend!